wiring hot grips - Page 2

kev maesteg · #16 08-03-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wizard

always run high current drain equipment through it's own fused direct connection to the battery AND through a relay. Pick up your ignition tap from an auxillary connection or tap into something that goes off with the ignition - always test that the connection goes off with a meter. If the grips do not come with a power light consider fitting one.

Do not use Scotchlocks!! - solder connections with heat shrink or screw connector blocks at the very least but heatshrink are less prone to water problems.

thank for the advice its confirmed what i wanted to do,wasn,t sure about the relay as an electrition i knew said i didn,t need it,but for a few £'s its worth the extra effort

Wizard · #17 08-03-2010

I'd stay away from that electrician. If it were just carrying the current of a small bulb then it probably doesn't matter. However your heated grips are probably drawing 30 watts which, at 12 volts, is just under 3 amps. If you were to connect this into the wiring for the headlight, for instance, then you would be increasing the load on that wiring by 75%. Now, unless you know the gauge of wire then it is impossible to know if you are overloading it or not - your heated grips will get a lot hotter when the wiring loom heats up as well! Also, depending on the wire gauge, running it at or near capacity will eventually lead to a breakdown in the current handling capabilities and lead to insulation problems

For the sake of a few quid for a relay better to do it by the book- get more info on relays here:

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp